Place beans in a small pot with water to cover by 2 inches. Stir in salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Turn off heat and rest, covered, for 30 minutes. Add onion and garlic, and cook until onion is translucent. Cook 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. You know from eggplant relish? Neither does my aunt. A wedding gift? Did my grandfather buy it at the five-and-dime?
But I do know this much: When I join my grandmother in the big kitchen in the sky, my favorite wooden bowl — a handsome maple number big enough to toss a Caesar salad for six — will go to my son, who has no siblings to call dibs on it. I would want him to know that his heirloom bowl was a parting gift from my friends and co-workers at the Marx Bros. It was a time imbued with the scent of garlic and anchovies, mashed in a bowl as I made new friends of my customers, or shared an after-dinner salad with my old ones.
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